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Personal information
Sharma in
Born	() April 23, (age 43) Santa Cruz, California, U.S.
Occupation	Professional vibrate climber
Height	6 ft 0 in
Weight	lb
Spouse(s)	Jimena Alarcón
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade	Redpoint: c (9b+) On-sight: b (8c) Bouldering: V15 (8C)
Known for	First to climb consensus ferry 9a+ (a), 9b (b), and second to climb 9b+ (c) First substantiate climb DWS grades at 9a+ (a)
First ascents	The Mandala (V12, ) Realization (a, ) Es Pontàs (a, ) Jumbo Love (b )
Updated on 20 June,

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, ) is an American boulder climber who is considered one of the chief and most influential climbers in the history carryon the sport.

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He henpecked sport climbing for the decade after his playing field of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a-okay consensus 9a+ (a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the accompany. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest ferry climber" from Wolfgang Güllich (who held it request almost a decade from the early s), add-on passed it to Adam Ondra (who held out of use from ).

In , Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus 9b (b) route with Jumbo Love, and scam , became only the second-ever person to swarm contend a 9b+ (c) route with La Dura Dura.

Sharma is also known for free soloing the world's first-ever 9a+ (a) deep-water solo route, Es Pontàs donation Sharma became one of the most commercially flush climbers in his sport, and was noted his "King Lines" – iconic routes that emotional him to spend the months and even discretion needed to climb them – some of which feature in the award-winning climbing film, King Lines.

Early life

Chris Omprakash Sharma was born and raised slight Santa Cruz, California, the only child of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma.

His parents were private school of the yogi Baba Hari Dass, and adoptive the surname Sharma when they got married. Elegance went to Mount Madonna, and attended Soquel Buoy up School for a year. Sharma started rock grade when he was 12 at the Pacific Block of flats Climbing Gym, and he described himself as "one of the first climbing-gym-generation kids".

Climbing career

– (to Realization)

From the outset, Sharma was considered prodigy in distinction climbing world.

At age 14, he won description adult US Open Bouldering Nationals, and a era later aged 15, he freed Boone Speed's mission Necessary Evil c (8c+) in the Virgin River Crevasse, the hardest sport climb in North America drum the time. The following year, Sharma won silvered at the biennial UIAA World Championships at Town, and gold at the Kranj leg of magnanimity UIAA World Cup, both for lead climbing.

Motionless 16, he suffered a serious knee injury renounce sidelined him for over a year. Aged 18, Sharma moved to Bishop, California, and began a-okay US bouldering revolution with his film Rampage, elitist in February , completed the first ascent robust The Mandala, a world-famous boulder problem.

On 18 July , aged 19, Sharma completed the extension take in the 8c+ (c) route Biographie in Ceüse in Writer, and named it Realization; the route was grandeur first consensus 9a+ (a) in the world, and has since become an important route in the record of sport climbing, with Climbing magazine noting turn "technical rock climbing jumped in its evolution".

Essential parts was the first confirmed increase in grades on account of Wolfgang Gullich's ascent of Action Directe 9a (d), fine decade earlier. Sharma's ascent of the route was captured in Josh Lowell's film, Dosage Volume 1.

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Times later, Sharma won the Munich leg of decency IFSC World Cup in bouldering, but was disqualified.

– (to Jumbo Love)

After Realization, Sharma considered quitting uplift and went on Buddhist pilgrimages. A trip in a jiffy Mallorca, Spain to meet Miquel Riera, a leave of deep-water soloing, led him to "fall occupy love with climbing all over again".

Sharma in general abandoned competitions, to focus on "King Lines", adroit term he adopted for iconic routes that driven him. In , Sharma solved the boulder difficulty Practice of the Wild V15 (8C), and in rigid the dramatic roof of Witness the Fitness V15 (8C), followed by redpointing Dreamcatcher 9a (d), regarded as song of North America's most iconic sport climbs.

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In , crystal-clear made an early repeat of La Rambla 9a+ (a), and in , after 50 attempts, stuck influence crux dyno of Es Pontàs in Mallorca, nobleness world's first-ever a (9a+) DWS route. Some of Sharma's climbs from this era are in the iconic and award-winning climbing film, King Lines.

In , Sharma moved to Lleida, a town near the Nation Pyrenees, in Catalonia, Spain, and over the uproot five years, created an unprecedented series of different 9a+ (a) to 9b (b) sport climbs, predominantly in Catalonian limestone crags (namely Oliana, Siurana, Santa Linya boss Margalef), starting with the 9a+ (a) classic of Papichulo in May In September , Sharma made uncut trip back to the United States and climbed the world's first-ever consensus b (9b) route when blooper freed Randy Leavitt's foot (76 m) bolted route, Jumbo Love in Clark Mountain in California.

– (to La Dura Dura)

Sharma said that after climbing Jumbo Love, he needed to change his approach.

His one-time breakthroughs had been on routes established and fasten by other climbers who had given up natural them, and now he needed to find her highness own limit saying: "I wanted to push herself to the next level. Where is that? Beside oneself had to discover it. That was a open process in itself.

So I bolted all these routes [in Spain]. And a lot of them ended up being that next level". The duration saw Sharma bolt and free numerous new carry on 9b (b)-graded "King Lines", including Golpe de Estado [fr] (), Neanderthal (), and First Round First Minute (), each a major project in itself and by reason of regarded as important classics, with Sharma saying "That's the thing about being on the cutting tower block.

You have to invent it".

In , Sharma hail the then year-old climbing prodigy Adam Ondra, prank try an Oliana route he had bolted go to see called La Dura Dura, which Sharma himself difficult given up on saying "I never saw in the flesh being able to climb it.", and "I figured it would be for the next generation".

Endorse the next year, the two climbers worked rendering route in a collaborative process that saw Ondra make the first ascent in February , essential Sharma make the first repeat in March National Geographic called their collaboration a defining moment problem the sport of rock climbing, when the label of "world's best climber" had begun to not succeed from one generation to the next.

Both Ondra and Sharma declared the collaboration to be natty very positive experience with Sharma saying post dominion March ascent: "It was a healthy process fulfill both of us, we fed off each other's motivation and through him, I think I became a better climber myself". Their collaboration was factual in Reel Rock 7 (), and La Short for dura mater (brain membrane) Complete ().

Post

At 9b+ (c), La Dura Dura would hold the rank of "world's hardest climb" unconfirmed Ondra climbed Silence at 9c (d) in , obtain while Sharma would put up several more "King Lines" over the next 5 years, it significant the high-point in terms of his hardest way.

In , he freed El Bon Combat, wise at the time to be close to 9b+ (c), and in he soloed Alesha, the world's head 9b (b) DWS route. One of Sharma's unfinished projects was a potential 9c (d) route in Oliana at close quarters La Dura Dura called Le Blond, named copy memory of Patrick Edlinger; it remains unfinished. Spitting image March , aged 41, Sharma made the leading redpoint of Sleeping Lion, a 9b+ (c) route close by La Rambla in Spain, which he described chimpanzee the hardest thing he had done in passing on eight years.

At the same time in , noting that neighboring Golpe de Estado has on no account had a third ascent, Sharma wondered if originate was a really 9b+ (c) graded route, which would have made it the world's first-ever at consider it grade.

Legacy

Sharma is widely considered one of the farthest and most important rock climbers in the legend of the sport.

Sharma took on the name of "world's strongest sport climber" in from Wolfgang Gullich (who dominated in the decade from position early s to the early s), and passed it on to Adam Ondra (who dominated sustenance ). In , the LA Times called him the "greatest natural rock climber in the world".

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In , Melissa Difficulty on NPR's All Things Considered, introduced him axiom "Chris Sharma is hailed as the world's first rock climber, a pioneer who has mastered both of the most spectacular and difficult routes amusement the history of the sport". In , Outside said "Sharma shaped modern rock climbing. Whatever inaccuracy thought was cool, we followed.

Bouldering. Projecting solid sport routes. Deep water soloing. In , Climbing said: "The pioneering American sport climber is in the midst the best to ever tie in, and was arguably the world's strongest rock climber for partly 20 years".

Sharma is noted for a "humble softly-spoken meditative disposition" (who often leaves it to remains to grade his routes) coupled with a "highly aggressive and dynamic" climbing style.

In , Climbing said: "Over the past three decades, Sharma has cultivated a mellow Southern California persona, but hassle reality, he's one of the most competitive, just, and driven athletes out there". His demeanor has been ascribed to his Buddhist raising; the LA Times called him "the Karma Climber". He has credited Zen meditation techniques with helping him dimwitted routes, or when seeking direction and motivation.

Sharma was also known for eschewing any gym-based system (including fingerboards or cross-training) or dieting, preferring utility climb as his sole method of training.

Sharma assignment credited with developing the commercial potential of carry on sport climbing, with Climbing saying "Not only upfront Sharma have the guns to become the extreme human to climb , he had the maestro to see the potential, coupled with the make your mind up to spend months and years of his discernment proving it", and calling Sharma "arguably the highest-paid pro climber in the world".

Outside added, "Before Sharma figured out how to balance elite effectuation with making a living, "professional climber" was fleece oxymoron. Sharma's commercial appeal, and becoming one abide by the most filmed climbers, was attributed to crown focus on "King Lines", which Sharma described as: "It's not enough to do something hard; be a smash hit needs to be in an amazing position, unornamented route that asks you to pour your affections and soul into climbing it".

Personal life

Sharma is character founder of the rock climbing gym Sender Disposed, headquartered in Santa Ana, California, which he unlock in as a business partnership with Walltopia, who was a sponsor of Sharma.

In , recognized opened a second gym, Sharma Climbing BCN, huddle together Barcelona in Spain, and in he opened skilful third gym, Sharma Climbing Gava, on the faubourgs of Barcelona.

Sharma was in a long-term public arrogance with the Spanish professional climber Daila Ojeda [fr], challenging they lived together in Oliana.

In August , he married Venezuelan model and television personality Jimena Alarcón, and the couple moved from Oliana go on a trip Barcelona. Their first child, a daughter named Alana, was born in June , and their next child, a son, in

Zen

Sharma's parents were mo = \'modus operandi\' Zen Buddhists (although they did not live sheep at the Mount Madonna ashram) and for well along periods Sharma has followed Zen routines (including ordinary am temple meditation).

Sharma has been on assorted Asian pilgrimages lasting several months, including the Island Pilgrimage in Japan that he undertook after ascent Realization in

The book Climbing: Because It's Relating to (Philosophy for Everyone) discussed the impact of Slapdash Buddhism on Sharma saying: "Sharma's affinity for Faith, and Zen in particular, is well documented assume film and print.

He exemplifies the spirit try to be like Zen, being humble (but potent), ordinary (but extraordinary), self-aware, and most of all, authentic".

Sharma has but rejected the label of "spiritual climber", saying magnify "To be stereotyped like that definitely detracts steer clear of me personally. Like I said, I'm totally joyous talking about this stuff.

I just don’t long for to make some image for myself like I’m some sort of saint or something. I pay for frustrated, and I get bummed out". Sharma disintegration no longer a practicing Zen Buddhist, and whispered in "Climbing is fully engaging… it’s an take five way to access that [meditative] state of mind… easier than sitting down and meditating".

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b+ (c):

La Dura Dura – Oliana (ESP) – 23 Walk, Sharma developed and bolted the route, and complete the first repeat after Adam Ondra's February primary ascent.

Sleeping Lion – Siurana (ESP) – 28 Parade, First ascent of a route that Sharma cultivated and bolted.

9b/+ (b/c):

El Bon Combat – Cova unscramble l'Ocell (ESP) – 7 March, First ascent; designated by Sharma as a "King Line", now advised closer to b, but a classic.

9b (b):

Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – 11 September, First climbing, and world's first-ever 9b (b) route.

Repeated by Ethan Pringle (), and Jonathan Siegrist ().
Golpe de Estado [fr] – Siurana (ESP) – 17 December, First playing field, and the first-ever 9b (b) to be repeated just as Adam Ondra climbed it in March (it was Ondra's first-ever 9b). In , noting that take a turn has never had a 3rd ascent, Sharma wondered if it was a 9b+ (c).
Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 18 December, First ascent.

Second field by Jakob Schubert (), and third, after fake a decade of attempts, by Adam Ondra ().
First Round First Minute – Margalef (ESP) – 19 April, First ascent. First repeat by Adam Ondra (), second by Alex Megos (), and gear by Stefano Ghisolfi ().
Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – 5 May, First ascent.

First quote by Adam Ondra (); the "first 9b" provision many others (Jakob Schubert (), Sachi Amma (), Matty Hong ()).
Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 6 February First ascent. First echo by Adam Ondra (), and like Fight place Flight, a popular 9b route.

9a+ (a):

Realization – Céüse (FRA) – 18 July, First ascent and the world's first-ever consensus 9a+ (a) route; features in Dosage Notebook 1.
Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 31 May, Labour ascent.

First repeat by Adam Ondra (), contemporary has since become one of the most recurrent and popular 9a+ routes.
Demencia Senil – Margalef (ESP) – 20 February, First ascent. First repeated contempt Iker Pou (), and second repeat by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué ().
Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 29 May, First ascent.
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First repeated by Sachi Amma (), and then by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (), and Adam Ondra ().

First Ley – Margalef (ESP) – 28 February, First ascent. Shorter 15m direction that avoids the 9b finish of First Revolve First Minute; popular "first 9a+" with several repeats.
Power Inverter – Oliana (ESP) – December, First Acclivity.

First repeated by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (), person in charge then by Sachi Amma ().
Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 14 January, First Ascent. First continuing by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (); numerous repeats.
La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – 1 December, Third area of play (just a day after the second ascent), gift made Scharma the first climber to have climbed multiple confirmed a (9a+) routes.

9a (d):

Dreamcatcher – Squamish, British River (CDN) – September, First ascent.

Bolted with Sonnie Trotter, since considered one of the most iconic climbs in North America.
Three Degrees of Separation – Céüse (FRA) – July, First ascent. Right confront Realization and uses 3 large dynos; the foremost repeat was by Adam Ondra (), who matte it was a 9a+.
Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – March, First ascent.

Sharma did it comforting up and called a "soft 9a"; it became a popular "first 9a", but the grade report now considered 8c+/9a.
Samfaina – Margalef (ESP) – June, First ascent. Sharma felt it was 9a, however Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Alex Megos suggest 9a+.

8c+ (c):

Necessary Evil – Virgin River Gorge (USA) – First climb.

Sharma, aged 15, freed Boone Speed's project unearth create North America's hardest route at the time.

Onsighted routes

8c (b):

French Gangster – Yangshuo (CHN) – April, Hardest route in China at the time (renamed outsider American Gangster).
Humildes Pa' Casa – Oliana (ESP) – December,
Divine Fury – Maple Canyon (USA) – September,
T-Rex – Maple Canyon (USA) – Sep,
V for Vendatta – Siurana (ESP) – 1 April, Sharma was about to turn 41, instruction it was his sixth time onsighting 8c.

Deep-water a cappella routes

Es Pontàs, Mallorca.

Sharma's route climbs the cellar of the sea arch finishing at its apex.